Galapagos Islands

We Almost Smuggled a Penguin and Lost Our Camera in Volcanic Waters

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The Galápagos trip that happened exactly one month before the world ended

My husband wanted to smuggle a penguin.

I’m not kidding. We were so close to Galápagos penguins on our boat tour that he could’ve literally reached out and grabbed one. Obviously we didn’t (hello, federal crime), but the fact that he was genuinely considering penguin theft should tell you everything about how unreal this place is.

Also, we lost our underwater camera while snorkeling because apparently I can’t hold onto expensive electronics while clinging to a life preserver for dear life. But more on that disaster later.

How We Ended Up Sleeping with Giant Tortoises (Semilla Verde Boutique Hotel Review)

Semille Verde Room 1

While normal people book beach resorts, we somehow found ourselves at Semilla Verde Boutique Hotel on Santa Cruz Island—which is basically what happens when someone decides to turn a working coffee plantation into a bed and breakfast and just… lets giant tortoises wander around freely.

Picture this: You wake up, stumble onto your balcony hammock, and there’s a 400-pound tortoise just casually strolling by like it’s heading to work. Meanwhile, you’re sipping coffee made from beans that were literally growing outside your window yesterday.

The whole setup was two houses, a handful of rooms, and the kind of hospitality that makes you wonder why you ever stayed at chain hotels. The chef cooked us homemade Ecuadorian breakfasts every morning that were so good I’m pretty sure they ruined all other breakfasts for life.

Reality check: No car, no problem. The staff called taxis for us, translated everything, and basically became our personal Galápagos concierges. This is not the place for nightlife or room service. This is the place where your biggest decision is which hammock to nap in.

Galápagos Snorkeling for Beginners: The Day I Discovered I’m Basically a Drowning Risk

DSCN9465

Here’s what I should’ve mentioned before booking a snorkeling tour: I’m the kind of swimmer who clings to pool walls and calls it ‘taking a break.’ I can swim somewhat; I just don’t like to put my head under water.

So naturally, I signed us up for a full-day snorkeling yacht excursion to Bartolomé Island.

The tour crew must’ve taken one look at me and thought, “This one’s gonna need help.” They literally swam beside me while I death-gripped a life preserver ring and timidly put my face in volcanic waters to see tropical fish that looked so fake I kept waiting for someone to tell me they were animatronic.

But here’s the thing—I did it anyway. And it was incredible.

We snorkeled over volcanic rock reefs, got up close with schools of colorful fish, and then had our penguin encounter that nearly turned my husband into an international wildlife smuggler. The crew served us lunch on the boat while we swapped stories with other travelers, most of whom had just come from the Amazon because apparently some people just casually tour South America like it’s no big deal.

Plot twist: That’s when we lost our underwater camera. One minute I’m trying to photograph tropical fish while not drowning, the next minute our camera is somewhere on the ocean floor becoming fish habitat. Classic.

The Sea Lion Who Almost Evicted Us

Galapagos Sea Lion

Remember how I said my husband wanted to steal a penguin? Well, we also nearly got barked off a cliff by an extremely territorial sea lion.

Picture the scene: We’re exploring some rocky coastline, taking photos, minding our own business, when this sea lion decides we’re trespassing on his prime real estate. This guy started barking at us from his cliff perch like the world’s angriest landlord.

We backed off real quick. Turns out sea lions don’t mess around when it comes to property disputes.

Small Town Life in Puerto Ayora: Where Wildlife Runs the Show

Evenings in Puerto Ayora were like stepping into an alternate reality where animals just… belong.

We’d walk through town watching families play volleyball in sand courts while sea lions lounged on sidewalks like oversized, sleepy dogs. Nobody seemed fazed by this. It was just Tuesday in the Galápagos.

The local grocery store became our entertainment—we’d wander the aisles trying random snacks and local foods like tourists playing grocery store roulette. The souvenir shops were selling t-shirts with things like “Look at My Boobies” (referring to the blue-footed birds, obviously) because nothing says sophisticated wildlife destination like bird puns.

Real talk: This isn’t Instagram-perfect cafes or designer shopping. This is raw island life where the Wi-Fi cuts out, the closest thing to nightlife is watching volleyball games, and your evening entertainment is sea lion spotting.

The Administrative Nightmare Nobody Warns You About

Getting to the Galápagos isn’t like booking a flight to Miami. It’s more like applying for citizenship in a different country, complete with fees, inspections, and enough paperwork to kill a small forest.

The pre-flight obstacle course:

  • Show up 2 hours early (and actually mean it)
  • Buy a $20 migration card with cash because apparently credit cards are too modern
  • Watch them X-ray your luggage looking for anything organic that might destroy their ecosystem
  • Pray you have all the right documents because there’s no winging it here

Once you finally land:

  • Pay another $100 national park entrance fee (also cash only)
  • Go through customs like you’re entering a different planet
  • Realize you’re only halfway to your actual destination

The journey continues:

  • 15-minute bus ride to something called “Itabaca Canal”
  • 10-minute ferry ride where you finally understand you’re island-hopping
  • 35-minute drive through landscapes that look like Mars decided to go tropical

The whole transfer process felt like an adventure movie where each mode of transportation gets progressively more remote.

Adventures in Volcanic Tourism

Galapagos Flamingo
Galapagos Crab
Lava formation

Beyond the penguin encounter and sea lion eviction notice, we managed to pack in some serious exploring.

We walked on actual volcanic rock formations while learning about how these islands literally rose from the ocean floor. We hiked up a mountain and climbed 1,000 steps to reach views that looked so dramatically beautiful I kept waiting for someone to yell “cut!” like we were on a movie set.

One day we took another boat tour to see flamingos in the wild, which sounds fancy until you realize they’re just… there. Standing around being pink in their natural habitat like it’s no big deal.

We also got to see blue-footed boobies, which are exactly as ridiculous as they sound and twice as entertaining to watch.

Nature overload: Giant tortoises, penguins, sea lions, flamingos, iguanas, and more birds than I could identify. It was like someone took every nature documentary you’ve ever seen and made it interactive.

The Timing That Changed Everything

We went in February 2020. One month later, the world shut down.

At the time, we had no idea we were taking what would become the last “normal” international trip for… well, nobody knew how long. We were just two people who found cheap flights and decided to go swim with penguins.

Looking back, that timing feels almost surreal. Like we accidentally time-traveled to experience something that was about to become impossible.

What Made It Worth Every Chaotic Moment

Giant Galapagos tortoise

The Galápagos isn’t a vacation—it’s proof that our planet is completely insane in the best possible way. Where else can you:

  • Wake up to giant tortoises in your backyard
  • Almost get evicted by a territorial sea lion
  • Swim alongside penguins at the equator
  • Lose expensive electronics in volcanic waters and somehow not care
  • Watch your husband contemplate wildlife smuggling
  • Buy coffee beans that were growing outside your bedroom window

It’s the kind of place that reminds you why you work extra hours, live simply at home, and prioritize experiences over stuff. Because sometimes you need to travel to the middle of the Pacific Ocean to remember that the world is actually magical, even when (especially when) it’s also completely ridiculous.

FAQ Section

Q: How much does a Galápagos trip cost? A: Budget $1,500-2,500 per person including flights from US, accommodation, tours, and mandatory fees.

Q: Do you need to be a good swimmer for Galápagos snorkeling? A: No! Tour operators provide life preservers and swim alongside beginners. I’m a terrible swimmer and had an amazing time.

Q: What’s the best island to stay on in Galápagos? A: Santa Cruz Island offers the most accommodation options, restaurants, and tour departure points, making it ideal for first-time visitors.

Packing tip: We brought our own Amazon-purchased snorkel gear and wore UV protection swim shirts and pants since you’re basically right on the equator. 100% worth it.

Bottom line: The Galápagos will mess with your head in the best way possible. You’ll come home with stories that sound made up, a new appreciation for volcanic islands, and possibly an irrational desire to own a pet tortoise.

Just maybe bring a strap for your camera.

Want more stories about accidentally perfect timing and questionable travel decisions? You know where to find me.

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